Ascent of Monte Rosa on 2012-08-13

Climber: Caj Svensson

Others in Party:Eva
Date:Monday, August 13, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Monte Rosa
    Elevation:4633 m / 15203 ft

Ascent Trip Report

Day 5: Really nice breakfast with yoghurt, at 5, at the Margherita hut. Got ready for climbing and left the hut at 6. Descended to the Colle Gnifetti saddle and ascended Zumsteinspitze on snow.
Descended to the Grenzsattel along a steep and narrow ridge. Very exposed but with good ice steps coming down. Some rocks in the saddle and more ice to traverse before heading up Dufour. Mixed climbing to the Grenzgipfel and then along the summit ridge up to the top. Highest point in Switzerland. Almost crowded with people - a few came from Zumsteinspitze but I believe most came up from Swiss side and the Monte Rosa hut.
Nice weather with not much wind, a few clouds.
Traversed back towards Italy and the Grenzgipfel to reach a set of fixed ropes. We descended these to the Silbersattle. This was a busy area with several parties coming down at the same time.
Eva and Josef started to descend the Monte Rosa glacier to the hut when Per and I started up Nordend. This ridge looks awesome from Dufourspitze. Icy traverse, but nice, from the saddle. A few rocks to the top. Two other guys from Italy and us, but no one else. Seems like an overlooked summit.
Really nice view of Dufourspitze from the summit. Back again along the same ridge to the Silbersattle. Then following the path down Monte Rosa glacier to the new Monte Rosa hut. A long hike over the glacier, across an ice fall and then over rocks, following cairns to the hut. Last piece of the hike along a marked trail. We gathered with Josef and Eva for a beer around 3 pm.
Both Eva and I got our toe nails hammered. Eva's feet hurted from blisters also. Nice dinner at the hut, with sallad. Early bedtime after a long day on the mountain.
Day 6: Breakfast at 5 and left at 6. Followed the Grenzgletscher morain to the old Monte Rosa hut. It was blown off the mountain by the army. Got on the glacier below the old hut, following the marked trail, down steep. Across the glacier in two steps, over the morain in the middle, reaching the Gornergrat side. Climbed ladders to the trail above. Hiked slowly to the Rotenboden railway station with hurting feet. Then on the cogweel train to Zermatt, hike to the lift station, lift to Klein Matterhorn, another hike along the ski slopes to Testa Grigia and finally the lift back to Cervinia.
A nice but very slow morning with hurting feet.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:622 m / 2050 ft
    Elevation Loss:2367 m / 7772 ft
    Distance:16.9 km / 10.5 mi
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Guide, Hut Camp
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:363 m / 1197 ft
    Extra Loss:284 m / 935 ft
    Distance:9.2 km / 5.7 mi
    Trailhead:Cabanna Margherita hut  4554 m / 14941 ft
    Time Up:8 Hours 21 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:2083 m / 6837 ft
    Extra Gain:259 m / 853 ft
    Distance:7.7 km / 4.8 mi
    Trailhead:Rotenboden train station  2809 m / 9219 ft
    Time Down:3 Hours 2 Minutes
Ascent Part of Trip: Frontier Ridge 2012 (5 nights total away from roads)

Complete Trip Sequence:
2Breithorn-Central Summit2012-08-10
4Liskamm-West Summit2012-08-12 1
5Liskamm2012-08-12 2
6Signalkuppe2012-08-12 3
7Zumsteinspitze2012-08-13 1
8Grenzgipfel2012-08-13 2
9Monte Rosa2012-08-13 3
10Nordend2012-08-13 4
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Caj Svensson
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. accepts NO responsibility or liability from use of this data.

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