Ascent of Illabot Peaks on 2012-09-30

Climber: Paul Michelson

Others in Party:Bill Harrison
Tim Jackson
Date:Sunday, September 30, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Illabot Peaks
    Elevation:5944 ft / 1811 m

Ascent Trip Report

The road approach for the SW route is brushed in and cut by water ditches ~9 miles from the 4100 ft saddle so we ended up approaching from the Illabot Creek road on the NW. We were able to drive to ~4100 and then proceeded to walk an overgrown road extension south along the West side of our objective peak until its closest approach below Lake Louise (`3600ft). From there we bashed up left of the outflow stream to the lake and then hiked to the ridge SE of the lake and regained the SW route. We followed prior descriptions from there to the summit. Along the way towards the final gully we found some steep heather slopes with questionable run-outs. We opted to simulclimb the final gully on our 30m rope, using slings on cedar scrub for protection. This is a nasty nasty gully and we made two short raps on the way down it.

On the top we could see the extension of road where our truck was to the NW so once back to the ridge crest between the summit and Pt 5600+ we made a short rap north into the basin heading Iron Creek. We followed this tea colored stream course down to ~4150 the traversed the brush left and to the abandoned road extension that led us back to the truck 9 hrs car to car and multiple scratches later.

This peak is quite rugged and with the SW approach road going away becoming quite remote. I find it hard to believe someone actually ran an endurance race over this peak. Lots of places for bad things to happen as it turned out by the fatality on the peak during the race.

pics and more info here:
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:2444 ft / 744 m
    Distance:10 mi / 16.1 km
    Route Conditions:
Road Hike, Open Country, Bushwhack, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:2344 ft / 714 m
    Extra Loss:500 ft / 152 m
    Distance:5 mi / 8.1 km
    Trailhead:4100 ft / 1249 m
    Time Up:5 Hours 40 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Extra Gain:100 ft / 30 m
    Distance:5 mi / 8.1 km
    Time Down:3 Hours 

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