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Ascent of Schesaplana on 2012-06-18

Climber: Rob Woodall

Others in Party:Lee Newton
Shannon Dillmore
Date:Monday, June 18, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Schesaplana
    Location:Austria/Switzerland
    Elevation:2965 m / 9728 ft

Ascent Trip Report

Later in the season this can be day hiked. However we made a morning ascent as the peak was still holding a lot of snow. We climbed from the Austrian side, having stayed overnight in the very comfortable Douglashutte.

After our morning ascent of Kuhgrat, we drove to the Lunerseebahn lower station N47.06719 E9.75455 (1524m). We weren't in time for the last cable car (1700) so we hiked up to the hut (2.3km, easy, less than an hour). The hut (N47.05950 E9.75431, 1986m) was nearly empty and we had a room to ourselves. After a shower we had a good meal, then early to bed.

We woke at 4.30 and left the hut at 0505. The morning was warm with a strong breeze blowing off the lake. Near the SW corner of the lake a gently graded path is signposted R (N47.05331 E9.74548) to Schesaplana and Totalp hut. In a few minutes we reached a big patch of snow, soft enough to cross without crampons. We roughly followed the line of the summer trail (paint marks), with fine views of Kanzelkopfe and across the Lunersee, Dreiturme. We reached the Totalp hut (N47.05256 E9.72738, 2388m) in 1 hour.

At the hut we fitted crampons and enjoyed the superb view which featured the impressive Dreiturme. From here the route was on snow all the way and a clear boot trail could be seen heading clockwise around a deep cwm then climbing to a saddle. The summit itself isn't seen until the saddle is reached. We hiked the route, generally easy but the final steep climb needed care: recent heavy snowfall was only just consolidated. From the saddle we could see a trail round to the R but we climbed straight up the slope ahead, then followed the boot trail which climbed steeply L through a small cornice to gain the ridge just below the summit (N47.05383 E9.70736, 2957m), which is marked by a cross and a small trig block (there are 3 other trigs, at N47.05381 E9.70718, N47.05383 E9.70744 and N47.05283 E9.70812). The view was superb, featuring Kesch, Lagrev, Bernina, Wildspitze and distant Zugspitz.

The wind was cold and we headed down. The initial steep descent was tricky with the snow already very soft at 0800. Once below this we made rapid progress on easy snow. We were back at the Douglashutte by 1100, in time for a drink before taking the 1135 cable car down.

Back at the lower station we said farewell to Lee who headed home while Shannon and I made the short drive to Itonskopf which we climbed that afternoon before my flight home.

Schesaplana photo album
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:1449 m / 4760 ft
    Elevation Loss:1449 m / 4760 ft
    Distance:12.3 km / 7.6 mi
    Grade/Class:F-
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons
    Weather:Pleasant, Windy, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:1445 m / 4744 ft
    Extra Loss:4 m / 16 ft
    Distance:7.3 km / 4.5 mi
    Route:Totalp hut
    Trailhead:Lunersee  1524 m / 5000 ft
    Time Up:2 Hours 40 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:1445 m / 4744 ft
    Extra Gain:4 m / 16 ft
    Distance:5 km / 3.1 mi
    Route:Totalp hut
    Trailhead:Lunersee  1524 m / 5000 ft
    Time Down:1 Hours 45 Minutes
GPS Data for Ascent/Trip


 GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks:  climbed and  unclimbed by Rob Woodall
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. Peakbagger.com accepts NO resposibility or liability from use of this data.

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