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Ascent of Mount Colden on 2012-06-10

Climber: Mike Wright

Others in Party:Felix
Date:Sunday, June 10, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
Peak:Mount Colden
    Location:USA-New York
    Elevation:4715 ft / 1437 m

Ascent Trip Report

1100 Parked at Heart lake and hiked in to Marcy Dam then on to Avalanche Lake. Passing avalanche lake we bushwhacked back to the Trap Dike where we wish we had mosqueto nets. 1330 Had some food and started up the Dike which was running with small waterfalls which appeared to be passable; most were fine with only one being wet but was no problem with sticky rubber shoes. I had changed from my hiking boots to approach shoes at the base. We continued up into the new part of the Dike almost to the end where the new slide begins on the right. We exited the Dike on the high side of the slide (left) at a pair of parallel cracks that aim left. After some 30ft of easy rock moves (must not fall here) we gained the slab. It was kind of steep-ish, we kept to the left until it got too steep then we surfed right to cross to the other side of the slab which didn't look quite as steep. At this point we encountered a small overlap which can be passed on the left (close to the center of the slab) with a bit of an easy-ish rock move. Felix, didn't traverse quite as far left and had a higher step to make, which seemed harder. The slab continues at an easier grade from here but no less of a workout until a steep step is reached. Below which is very muddy and extremely slippy. We traversed far to the right then up using trees for aid and very slippery mud under foot to surpass this section to arrive at the base of the step. We decided to traverse right towards the old slab via bushwhack. Above the step the climbing looked considerably steeper, probably above 5.0, and required a sketchy-ish traverse across the slab left to reach what might have been an easier way to ascend that uppermost part of the slide. We decided against that since we both thought the traverse (partly muddy) looked way to sketch. The bush whack right to the old slab (previously normal way to finish Trap Dike) was rough but short (~100-200ft). We finished the last 100 ft or so on the old slab and arrived at the boulder. We had some food and departed for the car at 1600. We arrived back to the car around 1930. Great day. Note I have not climbed the old slab and have no way to compare it but I would consider the slab both a no fall zone as well as a no-down-climb zone.
Summary Total Data
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Bushwhack, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Rock Climb
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Partly Cloudy
Chance of rain 20%, partly cloudy warm
Ascent Part of Trip: colden

Complete Trip Sequence:
OrderPeak/PointDate
1Mount Colden2012-06-10
2Mount Colden-North Peak2012-06-10



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