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Ascent of Marmolejo on 2012-02-22

Climber: Tom Brown

Other People:Solo Ascent
Only Party on Mountain
Date:Wednesday, February 22, 2012
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Marmolejo
    Location:Argentina/Chile
    Elevation:6107 m / 20039 ft

Ascent Trip Report

Five nights on the mountain, first night was in the Plantat refuge at 10,300'. Approached through the col northwest of San Jose Norte and descended into the valley immediately south of the peak. Perfect cloudless day on Feb. 22, winds were not too bad on the summit. Climbed mostly on dry ground, but crampons and an axe were definitely necessary. Saw no evidence of other parties/old camps whatsoever; this is not a popular route, likely because you have to go back up about 1,400' before you can go back down again on the main San Jose trail. I went this way to avoid crevasses as I was climbing alone. There is no trail after you leave the San Jose trail above 5,000m.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:3974 m / 13039 ft
    Distance:41.8 km / 26 mi
    Route:south face
    Trailhead:Puente Colina  2133 m / 7000 ft
    Grade/Class:PD
    Quality:8 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Scramble, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:4 nights away from roads
    Weather:Cool, Windy, Clear
-5 celsius/40kph winds
Ascent Statistics
    Time Up:4 Days 
Descent Statistics
    Time Down:1 Days 



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