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Ascent of Broken Top on 2011-08-20

Climber: George Burgess

Date:

Saturday, August 20, 2011

Ascent Type:

Successful Summit Attained

Motorized Transport to Trailhead:

Car

Peak:

Broken Top

Location:

USA-Oregon

Elevation:

9175 ft / 2796 m

Ascent Trip Report

Two friends from the Santiam Alpine Club and I left from Green Lakes trailhead on Friday evening. We had attempted Broken Top a month earlier, only to be turned back by foul weather and an extremely heavy snow year. This time, the trail was snow-free all the way to the mountain.

We camped Friday evening in the Green Lakes basin, and the next morning we met another pair of friends who hiked in that morning. We set out on the climbers' trail and gained the saddle within a couple of hours. Another hour and a half of classic Oregon volcano ridge walking put us at the bottom of the crux, where we encountered an unofficial Mazamas group, who set fixed lines along the traverse and catwalk while we worked the crux below. I led the short pitch, clipped into their anchor, and belayed the group, and before long we were celebrating on the summit with the Mazamas folks.

For the descent, we returned to the bottom of the crux, cut left onto the west flank of the mountain, and scree-skied back to the climbers' trail. We hiked out that evening, happy with an ascent that was practically perfect in all respects.

Summary Total Data

Elevation Gain:

3695 ft / 1126 m

Distance:

12.6 mi / 20.3 km

Route:

Green Lakes Trail/Climbers' Trail/NW Ridge

Trailhead:

Green Lakes Trailhead 5480 ft / 1670 m

Quality:

9 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)

Route Conditions:

Maintained Trail, Scramble, Rock Climb

Gear Used:

Ice Axe, Rope, Tent Camp

Nights Spent:

1 nights away from roads

Weather:

Pleasant, Breezy, Clear

GPS Data for Ascent/Trip

GPS Waypoints - Hover or click to see name and lat/long
Peaks: climbed and unclimbed by George Burgess
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Note: GPS Tracks may not be accurate, and may not show the best route. Do not follow this route blindly. Conditions change frequently. Use of a GPS unit in the outdoors, even with a pre-loaded track, is no substitute for experience and good judgment. Peakbagger.com accepts NO resposibility or liability from use of this data.

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