Ascent of Mount Rainier on 2011-08-07

Climber: Bri Wilson

Others in Party:Karl Themer
Florian Steiner
Dave Kincaid
Date:Sunday, August 7, 2011
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Mount Rainier
    Elevation:14411 ft / 4392 m

Ascent Trip Report

Started a little later from paradise due to the ranger station still being closed at 8am (they had had a wild party the night before so we heard). The first night we slept below anvil rock on the right of muir snowfield (about 8800'). Headed up to Ingraham flats early the next morning after passing through camp Muir. Ingraham flats was our high camp and we left for the summit at 1140pm to avoid the massive amount of guided groups. IMG put in a ladder over a crevasse leading to the cleaver just that day. It was a simple single ladder. The cleaver was mostly snow covered, but some rock was exposed. More rock was starting the show quickly. This year once you get on top of the cleaver, you make a long traverse to the right and end up on the arm of the Emmons glacier and switchback up from there. I brought wands for the trip, but none were needed. The route is incredibly well marked with wands already everywhere and the bootpath is so clear you could walk it blindfolded. Arrived at the crater rim at 415am and the summit at 430am. We stayed on the summit a while to watch the sunrise and then headed down. Large number of people on the DC this weekend and it was VERY tedious to wait for climbers moving excruciatingly slow on their ascent. No glissading from Muir snowfield--must walk the whole way down due to how chopped up the snow is from boots, the snow quality, and the mild slope grade.

Crevasses: Notable one at 11100' (ladder to cross), 12400', 13500', and 13700'. The one at 13700' must be jumped. All are opening up quickly.

Some cool notes: At about 8000' a hummingbird greeted me. This is above the tree line and there are no wildflowers out yet this year--definitely good luck! Also, we saw many shooting stars while on the summit push. Some even had the fantastic blue tails!
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:9411 ft / 2867 m
    Extra Gain:200 ft / 60 m
    Route:Disappointment Cleaver
    Trailhead:Paradise Lot  5400 ft / 1645 m
    Grade/Class:Grade II
    Quality:5 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:2 nights away from roads
    Weather:Pleasant, Calm, Clear
Perfect! Best I've seen at Rainier
Ascent Statistics
    Time Up:10 Hours 45 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time Down:7 Hours 30 Minutes

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