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Ascent to Mount Galatea-point on the summit ridge on 1999-06-19

Climber: Jan Triska

Others in Party:Chris Harfman (stayed at the base)
Date:Saturday, June 19, 1999
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Point Reached:Mount Galatea - point on the summit ridge
    Location:Canada-Alberta
    Elevation:3080 m / 10105 ft
    Remaining Elevation:39 m / 131 ft (3% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

An early season attempt on this massive peak in K-country. It was a beautiful day; I have some rather striking pictures from the south face of Galatea.
This mountain is not easy. I was very take by the steepness of the south slope and the fact that heavy snow cover clung to the face, into late June. My boots were sufficient for kicking steps until I reached the summit ridge, which is where things got tricky. I started to encounter some ice between the rocks on the ridge and soon found myself tackling little ice tongues, with the possibility of slipping down a 45-50% slope. The fact I didn't bring crampons on that day meant two things - being scared to a degree that I didn't want to continue and having a very interesting time on the descent.
I still enjoyed the day tremendously, in spite of turning around a mere 100 vertical meters from the summit. Mt. Galatea is one of those mountains I plan on returning to and trying to summit with the right gear.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:1180 m / 3871 ft
    Elevation Loss:1180 m / 3871 ft
    Grade/Class:up to Grade II
    Quality:7 (on a subjective 1-10 scale)
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Unmaintained Trail, Open Country, Snow on Ground, Scramble, Exposed Scramble, Snow Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe
    Weather:Pleasant, Breezy, Clear
sunny
Ascent Statistics
    Elevation Gain:1180 m / 3871 ft
    Route:south face
    Trailhead:Smith-Dorien road  1900 m / 6234 ft
    Time Up:4 Hours 
Descent Statistics
    Elevation Loss:1180 m / 3871 ft
    Route:south face
    Trailhead:same  1900 m / 6234 ft
    Time Down:3 Hours 



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