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Ascent of Triglav on 2010-08-23

Climber: Lee Newton

Date:Monday, August 23, 2010
Ascent Type:Successful Summit Attained
    Motorized Transport to Trailhead:Car
Peak:Triglav
    Location:Slovenia
    Elevation:2863 m / 9396 ft

Ascent Trip Report

A superb mountain and a long tough day trip due to the heat and the rough terrain.

I drove from our holiday cottage in Bled up to the huge parking lot and activity centre of Rudno Polje. I continued as far as possible (about 3km) along the rough track contouring around the hillside to the west. Since the track was rough and the parking limited, and I gained neither in altitude or much in proximity to the hill I think this is generally not worth the bother. I left the parking just before dawn (05.50), and headed up through the woods. After a short ascent I emerged into a meadow with a farm building and some cows. The route could be seen heading across the meadow and zig-zagging up the steeper headwall of the valley. The path was already rough underfoot due to the poor soil overlaying broken limestone, and would remain poor for most of the day.

Part way up the head wall, the direct path from Rudno Polje joined from the right hand side, and further up I arrived at a flat-bottomed hanging corrie with a direction sign and a path junction (alt. approx. 1720m). At this point the path headed left up a broken slope towards a small col called Studorski Preval at 1892m. At this point the path descends slightly and contours for over 2 km around the steep hillside towards the mountain hut of Vodnikov Dom. During the traverse, the views down to the valley of Bohinj were very fine and I already had the feeling I was quite high up. Until I got far enough round to see Triglav rising 1000m steeply above me!

I stopped at the hut for second breakfast around 8.10am, 2 hours and 20 minutes after setting out and contemplated the beautiful climb before me which was lit up by the morning sun. A short rising traverse then lead up to a major col and path junction, Konijski Preval, at 2020m. A couple of short sections were already secured by chains, although in dry weather these were entirely unnecessary. HOwever, the limestone on the path was extremely polished and slippery at some points.

From here there are 2 variatns, both protected routes which meet again at the summit of Mali (little) Triglav. I had planned to ascend the steeper of the 2, via Triglavski Dom hut and descend the easier via the Dom Planika hut but I was daydreaming and ended up zigging when I should have zagged just above the col. By the time I noticed I decided it would be easire to reverse than retrace.

The ascent to the hut at 2401m was uncomfortably hot with the white stone reflecting the heat but soon I arrived and could sit in the shade for a short time to recover. The final slopes of Triglav tower above you at this point. The ferrata almost starts and then doesn´t, and then after much rubbly slope goes into a short gulley, more rubble, and a little chimney eventually emerging on a little ridge. Except for the stonefall danger from the vast numbers of other climbers there is no real need to secure the route and I felt very comfortable without ferrata kit. The ridge leads up to the summit of Mali Triglav, before which the other route merges from the right. From the summit of Mali Triglav I could see almost a continuous line of climbers (and punters) working their way up or down the summit ridge. The connecting ridge is sensational in it´s views but the handrail and the crowds demeaned it somewhat. The main danger was overtaking panicky punters and the whole process took rather a long time. Eventually I found a small spot on the summit area to sit, 6 hours after leaving the car.

I decíded to descend by the same route since there was actually a long queue to go down towards Triglavski Dom and I could descend my route of ascent mainly 2m parallel to the fixed rope, thus avoiding the crowds. Other than the heat, the descent was uneventful and I eventually emerged from the forest at 4.20pm, 10.5 hours after setting out. A swim in Lake Bled that evening did wonders for cooling me off and soothing my battered feet. The beer afterwards did the same for the rest of me and I looked forward to a few other days out over our 2 week stay.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:1831 m / 6016 ft
    Extra Gain:149 m / 492 ft
    Distance:17 km / 10.6 mi
    Route:via Dom Planika
    Trailhead:Parking below Konjscica  1330 m / 4364 ft
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Aid Climb
    Gear Used:
Ski Poles
    Weather:Hot, Calm, Clear
Ascent Statistics
    Time Up:5 Hours 55 Minutes
Descent Statistics
    Time Down:4 Hours 25 Minutes



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