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Ascent to Glacier Peak-.75 mile north of Glacier Gap on 2010-07-04

Climber: Dennis Poulin

Others in Party:Eric Noel
Dean Molen
Ken Russell
Date:Sunday, July 4, 2010
Ascent Type:Unsuccessful - Turned Back
Point Reached:Glacier Peak - .75 mile north of Glacier Gap
    Location:USA-Washington
    Elevation:7560 ft / 2304 m
    Remaining Elevation:2960 ft / 902 m (30% left to go)

Ascent Trip Report

Bad weather over the 4th of July weekend. Hiked up to about 5,200 ft the first day with partners and camped on snow. Continued alone the next morning up to the PCT and then to White Pass. Several sketchy snow bridges over creeks crossing PCT. At White Pass it was socked in with very limited visibility. 2 climbers from CO were camped at White Pass and kicked steps up about half way to the unnamed pass east of White Mtn then they called it a day and headed down. I continued up to the unnamed pass and stopped. Very windy, cold, drizzly, and no visisbility. I pitched my tent and waited. 2 climbers (Nathan and ??) came up and continued into the void to the north. About 1.5 hours later 3 more climbers (Tom, Patrick, and Simon)came up and I followed them north.

We traversed around the White Chuck basin trying to maintain our elevation at about 6,400 ft and then slowly gained elevation towards Glacier Gap. About 1.5 miles before Glacier Gap we met up with the other 2 climbers and continued. I called it a day about .6 mile before Glacier Gap and pitched my tent. The others continued on to Glacier Gap.

The next morning the weather looked like it might break, so I left all my camp gear and headed up to Glacier Gap. The group of 5 were still sleeping, so I continued up the mountain. I could see the next pass above at about 7,600 ft so I climbed up there and then the weather closed in again. I waited, but finally stumbled down the other side of the pass in a total white out and found the ridgeline at about 7,400 ft that goes directly north to Disappointment Peak. The wind was blowing about 25 mph, visibility was only about 30 ft, and it was cold. It didn't look like the weather was going to clear, I was all alone, so I called it a day and headed down. I hiked all the way back to the TH and arrived about 8:15PM to end a very long day.

I slept at the TH and it was raining the next morning. I was glad I turned back instead of fighting the weather to the summit.
Summary Total Data
    Elevation Gain:8041 ft / 2449 m
    Extra Gain:1276 ft / 388 m
    Distance:31.3 mi / 50.4 km
    Route:North Saulk
    Trailhead:2071 ft / 631 m
    Route Conditions:
Maintained Trail, Snow on Ground, Snow Climb, Glacier Climb
    Gear Used:
Ice Axe, Ski Poles, Tent Camp
    Nights Spent:2 nights away from roads



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